Bohyme® Weft Series · Part 01
Choosing a Weft
Four constructions. One decision framework.
Professional Hair. Creative Freedom.
A hair extension weft is a length of hair joined along a single seam so it can be attached in rows. Bohyme builds four principal weft constructions — Hand-Tied, Machine-Tied, Genius and Seamless. They differ in seam dimensions, density, whether the weft can be cut, and the placement each supports. The right choice follows the client's hair, color plan and installation method.
In this guide
What this guide covers
- Prepared by
- Bohyme Education Team
- Published
- Last updated
Construction details, weft dimensions, density ratings and cutting guidance in this guide are drawn from the Bohyme® Weft Guide. Because texture, length and color availability change with production, the Bohyme Weft Availability Chart and the live collection pages remain the source of truth for what can be ordered today.
Definition
What is a hair extension weft?
A weft is hair gathered and secured along one edge — the seam — so that it forms a continuous strip rather than loose strands. That seam is what a stylist attaches to a track, a bead row, or a foundation, which is why weft construction governs so much of the finished result: how flat the row sits, how much hair each row delivers, and whether the weft can be shortened.
Three decisions are often collapsed into one, and separating them makes consultation faster:
- Construction
- How the weft itself is built — Hand-Tied, Machine-Tied, Genius or Seamless. This determines seam dimensions, density and cuttability.
- Collection
- The Bohyme hair tier — such as Classic, Luxe, Ethos, Private Reserve or Birth Remi®. This determines the hair itself, not the seam.
- Texture
- The pattern of the hair, from Silky Straight through the waved and textured families.
- Installation method
- How the weft is attached in the salon. A construction can suit several methods; the method is the stylist's decision.
Why this matters in consultationA client who says "I want hand-tied" may be describing a look, a comfort expectation or a price expectation rather than a construction. Establishing construction, collection and texture as separate questions reduces the risk of a mismatch that only becomes visible after the install.
At a glance
The four Bohyme weft types at a glance
- Hand-Tied Weft
- Hand-sewn strand by strand onto one continuous thread and knotted securely. Light density, built for color blending. It cannot be cut.
- Machine-Tied Weft
- Sewn on a triple-head machine with reinforced stitching, and 30% thinner than the industry standard. High density, and the broadest range of textures and collections.
- Genius Weft
- Thin, flat and light with no return hair and no folded-over hair. High density, and Bohyme's most customizable weft. It can be cut to size.
- Seamless Weft™
- A lightweight weft with zero return hairs that lies flat against the scalp. It can be cut without fraying.
Bohyme also publishes specifications for two further constructions — the Unlimited Seamless Weft and the M-Tied Weft — in the Bohyme® Weft Guide. This article focuses on the four constructions presented in the current Weft Availability Chart.
Comparison
How the four weft constructions compare
| Specification | Hand-Tied | Machine-Tied | Genius | Seamless™ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Construction | Hand-sewn strand by strand onto one continuous thread, knotted securely | Triple-head sewing machine with reinforced stitching | Thin, flat and light; built for customization | Lightweight construction that lies flat against the scalp |
| Weft dimensions | 0.76mm tall, 0.16mm thick | Original: 3.3mm tall, 1.62mm thick | Luxe: 1.71mm tall, 0.78mm thick · Ethos: 1.83mm tall, 0.84mm thick | 6.1mm tall, 0.8mm thick |
| Density | Light — supports color blending | High | High | Not stated in the Bohyme® Weft Guide |
| Can the weft be cut? | No | Not stated in the Bohyme® Weft Guide — confirm before cutting | Yes | Yes, without fraying |
| Folded-over hair | Approximately 1 inch | Not specified | None | None |
| Return hair | Not specified | Not specified | None | Zero |
| Weight | 110–114g (4oz) | 110–114g (4oz) | 70–100g depending on length | 110–114g (4oz) |
| Bundles per pack | Varies by length — 14": 10 · 18": 8 · 22–26": 6 | 1 | 1 | Not stated in the Bohyme® Weft Guide |
| Collections | Luxe, Ethos, Private Reserve, Classic | Birth Remi®, Classic, Luxe, Private Reserve, Ethos | Luxe, Ethos | Luxe, Ethos |
Scroll the table horizontally to compare all four constructions. Collection availability shifts with production — confirm current options on the Weft Availability Chart.
Construction 01
Hand-Tied Weft
What it is
The Hand-Tied Weft is built by hand rather than by machine. Bohyme rates it as a light-density construction designed to support layered color blending.
How it is constructed
Skilled technicians sew the hair strand by strand onto one continuous thread and knot it securely. The finished weft measures 0.76mm tall and 0.16mm thick, and carries approximately one inch of folded-over hair. Bundle count varies by length: a 14" pack contains 10 bundles, 18" contains 8, and 22" to 26" contain 6.
Best suited for
- Clients whose color plan depends on multiple shades reading through one another.
- Installations where a light-density row is preferred over maximum hair per row.
- Stylists who want to build density by adding rows rather than by weft weight.
Professional advantages
Light density is the defining characteristic. Because less hair is packed along the seam, layered shades have room to show through rather than being compressed into a single visual block. The hand-sewn thread construction also produces a notably thin seam profile at 0.16mm.
Limitations and cutting guidance
Do not cut a Hand-Tied WeftThe Bohyme® Weft Guide lists this construction as not cuttable. Because the hair is tied along one continuous thread, cutting the weft interrupts that thread. Plan row length during sectioning rather than trimming to fit.
Availability
Hand-Tied Wefts are produced across the Luxe, Ethos, Private Reserve and Classic collections in a wide range of textures. Review the current range in the Bohyme Hand-Tied Weft collection, confirm texture and length combinations on the Weft Availability Chart, or continue with the Hand-Tied vs. Genius Weft comparison.
Construction 02
Machine-Tied Weft
What it is
The Machine-Tied Weft is Bohyme's high-density, broadly available construction, and the format with the widest range of textures and collections behind it.
How it is constructed
The weft is created on a triple-head sewing machine with reinforced stitching, and Bohyme specifies it as 30% thinner than the industry standard. The original weft measures 3.3mm tall and 1.62mm thick, and each pack contains one bundle at 110–114g (4oz).
Best suited for
- Clients whose primary goal is fullness and density per row.
- Installations that need a texture or collection the thinner constructions do not currently carry.
- Stylists building coverage across a broader area of the head.
Professional advantages
Reinforced machine stitching and a high-density rating allow this construction to deliver more hair per row than Bohyme's light-density Hand-Tied Weft. It is also produced across Birth Remi®, Classic, Luxe, Private Reserve and Ethos — the broadest collection range of the four formats in the current Availability Chart — which makes it a practical starting point when a specific texture is required.
Limitations and cutting guidance
Confirm before cuttingThe Bohyme® Weft Guide does not publish a cut/no-cut rating for the Machine-Tied Weft as it does for the other constructions. Treat it as unconfirmed and verify with Bohyme or your authorized distributor before trimming, rather than assuming that cutting guidance transfers from another construction.
At 1.62mm thick, this is also the thickest of the four seams, which is a consideration where a low-profile row matters.
Availability
Explore the current range in the Bohyme Machine-Tied Weft collection. Because this construction spans the most collections, the Collection Comparison chart is the fastest way to narrow the hair tier before choosing a texture.
Construction 03
Genius Weft
What it is
The Genius Weft is Bohyme's most customizable construction: a high-density weft that is thin, flat and light, and that can be cut to size.
How it is constructed
The Genius Weft carries no return hair and no folded-over hair, which is what keeps the seam flat. Dimensions differ by collection: the Luxe weft measures 1.71mm tall and 0.78mm thick, and the Ethos weft measures 1.83mm tall and 0.84mm thick. Each pack contains one bundle of roughly 35 inches, weighing 70–100g depending on length.
Best suited for
- Installations that need rows sized precisely to the section rather than to the pack.
- Clients who want high density without folded-over hair at the seam.
- Stylists who prefer to plan row length at the chair.
Professional advantages
Genius pairs two properties that usually trade against each other: high density and a thin, flat seam with no return hair. The continuous 35-inch length means one bundle can be divided across several rows, so sizing follows the head rather than the packaging.
Limitations and cutting guidance
The Bohyme® Weft Guide confirms the Genius Weft can be cut to size for customization. The published guide does not specify a separate sealing step, so follow current Bohyme product guidance and confirm with Bohyme if an edge-finishing step is in question. Note also that the Luxe Genius seam is thicker than the Hand-Tied seam — 0.78mm against 0.16mm — so "thin and flat" describes its low-profile construction, not the lowest thickness measurement in the lineup.
Availability
Genius Wefts are produced in the Luxe and Ethos collections, currently in a focused texture range. Review what is in production in the Bohyme Genius Weft collection before promising a specific texture to a client. For a narrower construction decision, compare Hand-Tied vs. Genius Weft and Genius vs. Seamless Weft.
Construction 04
Seamless Weft™
What it is
The Seamless Weft™ is a lightweight construction designed to lie flat against the scalp, with zero return hairs and the ability to be cut without fraying.
How it is constructed
The weft measures 6.1mm tall and 0.8mm thick, carries no folded-over hair, and weighs 110–114g (4oz). The absence of return hair is what allows the weft to sit flush rather than standing away from the track.
Best suited for
- Clients who have previously found extension rows detectable and want a low-profile seam.
- Installations where the weft needs to be shortened without a fraying edge.
- Placements where comfort against the scalp is the deciding factor.
Professional advantages
Cutting without fraying is the practical advantage: rows can be sized to the section without the edge finishing that a fraying weft demands. Zero return hair contributes to how flat the row sits and how it feels against the scalp.
Limitations and cutting guidance
The Seamless Weft™ can be cut. Its seam height of 6.1mm is the tallest of the four constructions, so while it lies flat, it is not the smallest seam by every measurement — the Hand-Tied Weft is thinner at 0.16mm, and Bohyme's Unlimited Seamless Weft is both shorter and thinner. Density is not published for this construction, so plan row count from the client's hair rather than from an assumed density rating.
Availability
Seamless Wefts are produced in the Luxe and Ethos collections. Review the current range in the Bohyme Seamless Weft collection.
Decision guide
Matching the construction to the goal
| Consultation goal | Constructions worth considering | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Layered or dimensional color | Hand-Tied | The only one of the four rated light density, which gives layered shades room to read. |
| Maximum density per row | Machine-Tied or Genius | Both are rated high density. Machine-Tied offers the wider texture range; Genius offers the flatter seam. |
| Rows sized precisely to the section | Genius or Seamless™ | Both are confirmed cuttable. Seamless™ is specified as cutting without fraying. |
| Lowest-profile seam against the scalp | Hand-Tied, Genius or Seamless™ | They reach a low profile differently: Hand-Tied has the lowest published thickness at 0.16mm; Genius and Seamless™ eliminate folded-over and return hair. Placement, total weight and the client's density determine the final choice. |
| A specific texture or collection | Machine-Tied first | Produced across five collections and the broadest texture range, so it is most likely to carry the combination. |
| No folded-over hair at the seam | Genius or Seamless™ | Both are specified with no folded-over hair; Hand-Tied carries approximately one inch. |
Consultation
What to establish before choosing a weft
Construction is one of four decisions, and it is rarely the first one that should be made. These questions tend to resolve the choice faster than starting from a product name.
- What is the color plan? A single solid shade and a layered, multi-tonal plan point toward different densities.
- How much hair does the client's own density actually need? Row count and weft density are separate levers.
- Does the installation method require the weft to be shortened? If so, the construction must be confirmed cuttable.
- Where will rows sit, and how much does seam profile matter at those placements?
- Which texture is the client asking for, and is it currently produced in the construction under discussion?
- Which collection suits the client's expectations for the hair itself, independent of the seam?
- What maintenance routine will the client realistically follow? See the Bohyme Hair Care Guide.
Sequence that worksEstablish the color plan and the client's density first, then the texture, then confirm which constructions currently carry that texture, and only then select the seam. Working in that order reduces late changes caused by availability.
Combining constructions
Can different weft types be used in one installation?
Yes, when the combination is supported by the color plan, placement and the client's natural hair. Bohyme specifically notes that high-density Genius Weft can be combined with light-density Hand-Tied Weft to make dimensional color blending easier. That is a verified product pairing, not a universal instruction to combine every construction.
Before combining wefts, assess each variable separately:
- Seam profile: Different heights and thicknesses change how adjacent rows sit.
- Density and weight: Hair weight per row will not be uniform across constructions.
- Cutting guidance: Genius and Seamless™ are cuttable; Hand-Tied is not; Machine-Tied guidance should be confirmed before cutting.
- Collection, color and texture: Availability and shade matching must be confirmed rather than assumed.
The final design remains a professional judgment based on the client in the chair. For an installation-specific question, confirm current product guidance with Bohyme or an authorized Bohyme distributor.
Common mistakes
Where weft selection usually goes wrong
- Cutting a Hand-Tied Weft
- This construction is rated as not cuttable. Row length has to be planned during sectioning instead.
- Assuming cutting guidance transfers
- Genius and Seamless™ are confirmed cuttable; Hand-Tied is not; Machine-Tied is not rated in the Weft Guide. Each construction has to be checked on its own.
- Treating "thinnest" as one measurement
- Wefts are specified by both height and thickness. Hand-Tied is the thinnest at 0.16mm; Genius and Seamless™ sit flatter through the absence of return hair. The ranking changes depending on which dimension matters.
- Collapsing construction, collection and texture
- These are three separate decisions. Choosing a construction does not settle which hair or which pattern the client receives.
- Solving density with weft weight alone
- Density per row and number of rows are independent levers. A light-density weft can still deliver fullness across more rows.
- Quoting availability from an article
- Texture, length and color availability change with production. Confirm against the Weft Availability Chart before committing to a client.
Frequently asked questions
Weft selection, answered
What is a hair extension weft?
A hair extension weft is a length of hair secured along one edge, called the seam, so the hair forms a continuous strip that can be attached in rows rather than as individual strands. The construction of that seam determines how flat the row sits, how much hair it carries and whether it can be cut.
What are the four Bohyme weft types?
Bohyme's four principal weft constructions are the Hand-Tied Weft, the Machine-Tied Weft, the Genius Weft and the Seamless Weft™. Bohyme also publishes specifications for the Unlimited Seamless Weft and the M-Tied Weft in the Bohyme® Weft Guide.
Which Bohyme wefts can be cut?
The Genius Weft and the Seamless Weft™ are both rated as cuttable, and the Seamless Weft™ is specified as cutting without fraying. The Hand-Tied Weft cannot be cut. The Bohyme® Weft Guide does not publish a cut rating for the Machine-Tied Weft, so confirm with Bohyme before trimming it.
Why can a Hand-Tied Weft not be cut?
A Hand-Tied Weft is sewn strand by strand onto one continuous thread. Cutting the weft interrupts that thread, which is why Bohyme rates this construction as not cuttable. Plan row length during sectioning rather than trimming the weft to fit.
What is the difference between a Hand-Tied and a Machine-Tied Weft?
A Hand-Tied Weft is sewn by hand onto a continuous thread and is rated light density, which supports color blending. A Machine-Tied Weft is produced on a triple-head sewing machine with reinforced stitching, is rated high density, and is specified as 30% thinner than the industry standard. The Hand-Tied seam is thinner at 0.16mm against 1.62mm.
What is a Genius Weft?
A Genius Weft is Bohyme's most customizable construction: thin, flat and light, with high density, no return hair and no folded-over hair. It can be cut to size, and each pack contains a single bundle of roughly 35 inches.
What is a Seamless Weft?
A Seamless Weft™ is a lightweight Bohyme construction that lies flat against the scalp, has zero return hairs and can be cut without fraying. It measures 6.1mm tall and 0.8mm thick.
Which Bohyme weft suits fine hair?
Seam profile is one important consideration for fine hair, but it cannot be separated from total weight, placement, tension and the amount of natural hair available to cover the row. Hand-Tied has the lowest published seam thickness at 0.16mm, while Genius and Seamless™ eliminate folded-over and return hair. A qualified stylist should select the construction after assessing the client's density and installation plan.
Which weft gives the most volume?
The Machine-Tied Weft and the Genius Weft are both rated high density in the Bohyme® Weft Guide, so both deliver more hair per row than the light-density Hand-Tied Weft. Total fullness also depends on how many rows are installed, not on weft density alone.
Which weft suits dimensional or balayage color?
Among the four principal constructions, the Hand-Tied Weft is the one Bohyme rates as light density specifically to allow color blending, which makes it the usual starting point for layered color. Bohyme's Unlimited Seamless Weft is also rated medium density for color blending.
What does "return hair" mean on a weft?
Return hair is hair that folds back at the seam during construction, adding bulk where the weft meets the scalp. Bohyme specifies no return hair on the Genius Weft and zero return hairs on the Seamless Weft™, which contributes to how flat those rows sit.
Can different Bohyme weft types be combined in one installation?
Yes, when the pairing supports the client's hair, placement and color plan. Bohyme specifically notes that Genius Weft can be combined with Hand-Tied Weft to make dimensional color blending easier. That does not establish every possible combination as appropriate; seam profile, density, weight, cutting guidance, collection and shade matching still require professional assessment.
Is a weft type the same as a Bohyme collection?
No. The weft type is how the seam is constructed, while the collection — such as Classic, Luxe, Ethos, Private Reserve or Birth Remi® — describes the hair itself. A single construction can be produced across several collections, and the two decisions should be made separately.
How do I check which textures and lengths are currently available?
Texture, length and color availability change with production, so no article should be treated as a stock list. The Bohyme Weft Availability Chart and the individual collection pages are the current source of truth.
What is the difference between a weft and an installation method?
A weft is the product — hair secured along a seam. The installation method is how a stylist attaches that weft in the salon, such as a beaded row or a sewn track. One construction can suit several methods, and the method is the stylist's decision based on the client's hair.
Does a thinner weft always sit flatter?
Not necessarily. Wefts are specified by both seam height and seam thickness, and flatness against the scalp is also affected by return hair and folded-over hair. The Hand-Tied Weft is the thinnest of the four at 0.16mm, while the Genius Weft and Seamless Weft™ achieve a flush row partly through having no return hair.
Continue your research
Related Bohyme professional resources
-
Bohyme® Weft Guide
Full published specifications for every Bohyme weft construction, including dimensions, density and cutting ratings.
View the Bohyme Weft Guide -
Weft Availability Chart
Which constructions, collections, textures and lengths are currently in production.
Check current weft availability -
Collection Comparison
How Classic, Birth Remi®, Essential, Luxe, Private Reserve and Ethos differ as hair, independent of the seam.
Compare Bohyme collections -
Style & Texture Comparison
How each Bohyme texture family differs in movement, definition and finish.
Compare Bohyme textures -
Bohyme Color Chart
Solid shades, blends, highlights and balayage, rooted and ombré options.
View the Bohyme Color Chart -
Hair Care Guide
Washing, brushing, drying and maintenance guidance to set client expectations at consultation.
Read the Hair Care Guide -
Hair Length Guide
How measured length reads on straight, wavy and curly textures before you select a length.
View the Length Guide -
Originators of Remi®
Bohyme's cuticle-aligned Remi® standard and the craft behind it, since 1978.
Explore Bohyme's Remi® heritage -
Hand-Tied vs. Genius
A focused comparison of density, color blending, seam profile, customization and professional use.
Compare Hand-Tied and Genius -
Genius vs. Seamless
How two cuttable, low-profile Bohyme constructions differ in dimensions, density and client suitability.
Compare Genius and Seamless
Explore Bohyme wefts
Confirm the construction, then choose the hair.
The Weft Availability Chart shows current options across the four listed constructions — Hand-Tied, Genius, Seamless and Machine-Tied — by collection, texture and length. It is the fastest way to move from a consultation decision to an order.
About Bohyme®
Professional Hair. Creative Freedom.
Bohyme has engineered professional human hair extensions since 1978. Nearly five decades on, the work is unchanged in principle: build hair that behaves the way a stylist needs it to, and give professionals the information to choose it precisely.
Prepared by the Bohyme Education Team. Construction specifications in this guide are drawn from the Bohyme® Weft Guide; current availability should always be confirmed against the Weft Availability Chart or with an authorized Bohyme distributor.